365 tuesdays

With its too-cool-for-school vibe, its rude barman, and all those foreigners, there's a lot you can hate about A Fuego Negro.  But there are things that keep you coming back, too. One of these are the black rabas. They're not fried calamari in a black ink tempura, which is what I expected to get. Please. They are more along the lines of the creamiest croquetas in the world. They are delicious and shocking. Surprising.

Part of the 365 Cities project.

pintxo astearteak (tapa tuesdays)

a fuego negro:::rosbif, mostaza, pimento asado (a slab of red pepper meringue topped with diced raw beef, dotted with whole grain mustard)

Calle 31 de Agosto, 31 ::: Donosti-San Sebastián 

pintxo astearteak (tapa tuesdays)

a fuego negro::

Today I present you all with an incredibly beautiful and enlightening video that details the magic at the Guiri's favorite pintxo bar.  Watch in awe as they cryovac pig's ears, squirt vermouth into olives, and freeze dry garlic flavored liquid into the shape of garlic! Makes you hungry (or something).

PLATOS from anna ormrod on Vimeo.

pintxo astearteak (tapa tuesdays)

a fuego negro:::paloma, tiro, PUM! (pidgeon breast with beet juice "blood", a rice paper comic PUM! and a licorice flavored "bullet")

una charla with the world's greatest chefs

On Tuesday night I had the priviledge of attending a cozy little chat between the best chefs of my town.  If I were still in Alabama, this would mean I was hanging out with my boss and our friends. However, as a resident of Donostia-San Sebastián, this means I was listening to the best chefs in the world sit around and shoot the breeze.

Juan Mari Arzak, his daughter, Pedro Subijana (Akelarre), Martin Berasategui, Andoni Luis Aduriz (Mugaritz), Iñigo Cojo (A Fuego Negro), and Eneko Atxa (Azurmendi) gathered together Tuesday night for something uniquely European, a government sponsored chat on the important values of the region (in this case, culinary).  An institutionalized intellectual conversation? These are the reasons I love it here.

The premise? Basque cooking is something special.

The explanation? There is a spirit of sharing, a culinary compendium, that began with this eldest of generations (Arzak + Subijana) and has been passed down, resulting in a richer body of culinary achievement. And if it sounds like hocus pocus, I have to admit I'm on board: you can walk into the dinkiest, dirtiest bar here and eat GOOD. I mean, WELL (that's for all my english students).

Some highlights (translated by yours truly):

pedro subijana

• "Things don't fall into your lap from the sky, they fall into your lap from hard work." 
• "People are afraid to ask questions."
• "Dont waste your time on things that will make you bitter about life."

juan mari arzak

• "I'm never going to retire." 
• "Fight for your job to be your passion."

martin berasategui

• "First be a person, then a cook."
• "Being stubborn is very important."

andoni luis aduriz

• "Nothing is more powerful than enthusiasm."

And they really are friends...and people. It was so cool to see their respective personalities: Juan Mari and Pedro, the grandfather figures, equally humorous but Juan Mari a little bit more overt; Martin with his Emeril-like campesino character, rough around the edges; Elena, who for me was Pardis Stitt-like in her diplomacy; Andoni and his scholarly note-taking and serious considerations; and Eneko and Iñigo, the youngest, Iñigo slouching around and throwing out "hombre" just as anyone his age would.

*and might I add, with a bit of childish excitement, this happened two blocks from my house! squeeeee